Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
